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Breathtakingly beautiful and private, there
is rarely anyone at this waterhole. Sunlight
makes honeycomb patterns on the underwater
ledges and shimmering ribbons on the surface.
Encircled with native fauna, rocks, ferns and
trees adds to its otherworldly enchantment.
This is a place where a smile automatically
spreads across my face and stays there all day.
A five-minute drive from the campground
is Frog Rock, one of Puketui Valley’s most
popular local swimming spots. As the name
suggests, it’s a big, flat froggy-looking rock
in the middle of a deep, wide part of the river.
Cars park at the edge of the narrow gravel
road and people must walk across nobbly
rocks and river current to get to the ‘beach’– a
sloping rocky embankment.
Like Hot Water Beach at low tide, I am always
astounded by the number of people who know
to seek out these special spots. Grandparents,
children, teenagers, tourists...it is a little village
on a summery day. Kids make friends while
taking turns watching each other leap, flip
or bomb into the water. Adults loll about on
the hot rocks like seals, sliding into the cool
depths every now and then.
Puketui Valley and Broken Hills is, without
exception, my favourite place to trail run
and hike any time during the year. It offers
immense variety in landscape and terrain.
Once a bustling gold mining settlement, the
labyrinth of trails passes through old mine
workings, water race trenches, remnants of
stamper batteries and tunnels. There are trails
for all ages and abilities, long and short tracks,
suitable for walking or running.
The fierce challenge of a steep ascent to
the Lookout, handsomely rewards with
360-degree views of ocean, mountain, pasture
and river. Walking through Collins Drive tunnel
is a thrilling and courageous rite of passage for
children and adults alike. Do bring your torch.
Walking through a 500-metre long tunnel
without one is quite scary (believe me, I know).
Campsites offer toilets, but bring drinking water
(if using water from the taps, you must boil first).
Dogs and firepits not permitted. No bookings
necessary, $10 per night (honesty box).
Watch for weather alerts in off season. See brochure
for campsite info and details of the various walking
tracks:
recreation/tracks-and-walks/waikato/broken-hills-
recreation-area.pdf
The Tairua River is the lifeblood of the Valley
and invites people to find their own ‘secret
spot’ at every bend. Watching the boys rock
hop upstream, I notice how confident and
sure-footed they are, though I shouldn’t be
surprised. It is and has always been, their
long-time playground.
I am slower, in my clumsy adult way, lugging
the bag with the chips, nectarines and
sunscreen – with towels like so many scarves
hanging around my neck – as I navigate a
rocky path to find a flat rock to sit upon.
Puketui Valley stills me – the birds silencing my
internal chatter. The air is thick with the scent
of honey and the cool water flows.
My Coromandel sanctuary...
so ‘good for the soul’
The Water Race Trail
Photos and descriptions by Arne Rohde, an avid hiker and blogger.
The Water Race Track is a 1.9km loop that runs between Main Range
Track and Water Race Link Track. It follows the old race that took water
from the Third Branch Stream across Tairua River, to drive the Broken
Hills Battery. Three short tunnels are clustered along the trail. None
require a torch, and there are some steeper sections with steps.
Hewn from solid rock to direct water to where it was needed, one of the
deepest cuttings is shown at right. The race is muddy in many places,
but alternative tracks have, in some of the worst cases, been formed on
the embankments alongside the race – no additional route around this
particular cutting however.
Steps lead up to the first tunnel when heading south along the Water
Race Track (shown far right). The second tunnel is nearby, with the
third one only a few metres further. The ends of all three of these
tunnels are visible from the start.
The original race was 3300m long. At the southern end, the track joins
the Water Race Link Track. From there you can either take a 15min long
stepped walk to Puketui Walk and return to your starting place, or climb
up the Third Branch Track and onto Collins Drive. The Third Branch
Track is quite steep, with numerous steps.
Parts of the water race are actually
hewn from solid rock.
Steps leading to the first tunnel. No
torch necessary in this one.
Arne Rohde has written occasional blogs about motorbike rides and walks, mainly
in the Bay of Plenty, Waikato, and the Coromandel. It includes great photos,
informative descriptions and important tips. We included some of his photos and
insights in our Road Trip through the Karangahake Gorge in the Summer 2016
issue. See more of his adventures at
Left: A small waterfall and pool are accessible from
the battery site. – PHOTO BY ARNE ROHDE
Emma Darragh is a talented writer as well as co-founder
of ‘CoLab Collective’, a business providing affordable and
effective ways to reach your audience. Contact her at
021 122 9017. See or facebook.
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